COMPUTER DISASTER PREPAREDNESS
(The Backup Bible)
updated February 2018

If a major earthquake or other natural disaster strikes, will you lose essential
data? If your roof leaks onto your computer and shorts it out, will all your
family photos be gone? If something happens to you, a family member, or key
employee, does someone else know all the passwords to turn the computer on and access
computer accounts, email, and encrypted files?
Plan ahead to prevent losing your list of contacts, emails, tax records, photos,
bookmarks/favorites, crucial business data, and other essential files.
PASSWORDS AND USER NAMES

Make a list of all the passwords and usernames that you (and your family members
and employees) use. Write them down pencil and paper (legibly!) and put them in
your safe deposit box or email it to a senior company officer. You may
also want to keep a copy on your computer, but don't name the file
"passwords". Instead, name it something like Cleveland Vacation Photos, so
no hacker will be tempted to look at it. Put a copy of the list in your safe deposit box, along with your will
and medical power of attorney. On this list, include your cell phone and
tablet unlock codes, and all usernames and passwords for: email accounts, computer login,
computer administrative user (for Macs and servers), online banking, cell phone
unlock code, Amazon account, Apple ID, Dropbox, Audible,
iCloud, Facebook, Google Drive, frequent flyer accounts, online shopping,
Kindles, router logins, Microsoft account, stock trading accounts, and file encryption keys if you use them.
Capitalization matters with passwords,
so when you write them down, make sure people can tell which letters are
upper-case and which are lower-case. Clearly distinguish the letter O from
the number 0, and distinguish the number 1 from the letter I and lower case l, so people can read
what you have written. For Gmail, Yahoo mail, Verizon webmail, and others, for extra security
you can enable two-step verification, but it is a bit tricky to install.

After writing down all your usernames and passwords, keep a copy at home, put a
copy in your safe deposit box, and give a copy to a trusted friend or relative
who lives outside your area. If a natural disaster (earthquake, flood,
etc.) wipes out your house and you are evacuated to a shelter, you can phone
your trusted friend to get your passwords. It's also a good idea to keep a
copy of your email password in your wallet. What makes a good password?
The EFF recommends using a
long string of words with no spaces between them. Something like
Myfavoritefoodsarechocolateandstrawberries5# with one capital letter, at least
one number, and a special character. That will satisfy password strength
requirements and yet be easy to remember. Write down the M5# and remember
the words in between.
INSTALLATION DISKS AND FILES
To recover from a disaster, you will need the disks (or the contents of the
disks) to install your software, plus any installation files you purchased and
downloaded. When you download software, save it in a folder called Install
Files in case you ever need it again, or buy from Amazon which has a one-stop
login for all downloaded software. When you get a CD, copy an image of
it (or copy all the files) into a folder in the Install Files folder. Make
a file called CDKEY for each program, with the authorization code or CD key, so
you can reinstall it if needed. Put this CD key file in the folder
with the software that it unlocks. Do this for all software essential to keep your business
or household running. You don't need to back up printer driver files,
since you can always download them from the manufacturer's website. If you
are using older versions of software, even if it is freeware, it is essential to
save it. Software vendors commonly only post the most recent versions for
download, so make sure to keep archival copies of old software install programs
in your Install Files folder. Make sure to back up this folder as part of
your regular backup strategy.
www.ninite.com is a handy one-stop place to download the latest versions of
common freeware.
EMERGENCY DISKS OR RECOVERY DRIVE
When you buy a new Windows computer, one of the first things you should do is to
make a recovery disk (or an emergency recovery flash drive). You will need a flash drive that is
32 GB or larger. Do it NOW.
If you wait until the computer has a problem, you won't be able to make it.
Mac users instead will use Time Machine (see below).
Instructions for creating a repair CD are
here for
Windows 7,
Windows 8 and
Windows 10. Instructions to create a repair USB drive
are
here for Windows 8 and
here for Windows 10. You also can borrow one from me or a friend or
download the disk image online to create a recovery drive using a friend's machine. There are several different kinds
of recovery drives (Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7, Windows 8, Windows 8.1,
and Windows 10. Each comes in two flavors, 64-bit or 32-bit. You
must have the correct version that matches your operating system).
You will need to borrow
or download the correct recovery drive if you didn't make
one. You can download the ISO for the recovery CDs here for
Windows XP, Windows 7, Windows 8, or
Windows 10
(click on blue box Download tool now), and then use your CD burning utility to
burn a disk.

WHAT TO BACK UP
A dentist I know has a sign in his office which says, “You don’t have to brush
and floss all your teeth – only the ones you want to keep.” I should have a sign
in mine that says, “You don’t have to back up everything on your computer – only
the stuff that is important and you may need some day.” Most people never back
up their data, and then get upset when they lose family photos, tax records,
business records, school term papers, and other important files.
You can lose files due to earthquake, theft, fire, virus infection, or the
computer dying from heat or old age. Sometimes these files can be recovered at a
cost of thousands of dollars, but sometimes they are not recoverable at any
price. So BACK UP your important files. Often.
Most home users do not need to back up the entire computer, just their data. But
businesses can’t afford for their computers to be down for days while they
re-install everything after a disaster. So businesses need to back up the entire
computer, not just the data. Usually business computers are networked together.
The easiest way to back up a network is to designate one computer as the network
master or server. Back up all the subsidiary computers onto the master, then
back up the master (including the slave backups) onto a removable external
drive.
In the old days, all files were stored locally on your computer and you had to
remember to back them up. Nowadays you have a choice - keep your files
locally and back them up locally, or store them in the cloud using
Google Drive,
Dropbox,
iCloud, or another cloud service provider.
Even if you store files in the cloud, it's a good idea to locally back up your most
critical information such as your Contacts, old tax returns, and most important
documents.
For files stored on your own computer, most home users back up these folders: My Documents, Desktop, My Pictures,
Favorites, Downloads, Google Drive, Dropbox, Install Files, and My Music. If you have an iPod, your music is probably
already copied onto the iPod, which will back up your music. If you use
Firefox or Chrome, back up your bookmarks if they
aren't synced to your Gmail account. If you use Outlook, Outlook Express,
Eudora, Thunderbird or other email software, make sure to back up your Contacts,
Inbox, and other email files in CSV format. You may also have other
folders such as SWSETUP or DRIVERS on your hard drive that need backing up, to
help you reinstall software on a replacement machine.
Don't forget to back up your mobile devices (cell phone, smartphone, tablet,
iPad, and laptop) if they have stored any
data or photos that aren't already in the cloud or on your desktop computer. If you
sync your mobile device to your computer, then backing up the computer will also
back up the data on the phone.
Make sure to back up your email contacts, online calendar, and email. To
export just the contacts, Gmail users can go into their contact list, then click
on More / Export. Save into your My Documents folder, Google Drive, or Dropbox folder.
Or get detailed instructions for backing up Google Contacts, Google Calendar,
Google Drive, and other Google data here.
https://www.google.com/settings/takeout and also check your Gmail
security settings including a recovery telephone number here
https://www.google.com/settings/security Yahoo email users can export
their contacts but not their mailboxes. To export Yahoo contacts, click on
the Contacts icon on the left, then select Actions/Export.
HARDWARE FOR BACKING UP
Back
up your data onto a USB flash drive if you don’t have a lot, or onto a removable
hard drive if you have too much for a flash drive. USB flash drives cost about $20 for 64GB. A removable hard drive costs about $90 for 2 TB (2000 GB). You can also back up
your data using an
online backup service, where you don’t need to buy any hardware, as explained in
the software section below. USB 3.0 drives are much faster than USB 2.0
drives, but only the newest computers can take advantage of this additional
speed. If you buy a USB 3.0 drive, make sure it is backwards compatible to
USB 2.0.
Except
when actually running a backup, always disconnect and remove the backup drive
from the system. If the backup drive is turned on and running when an earthquake
hits, the data on it will probably be ruined. After disconnecting the backup drive, get
it out of the house or office, to protect it if there is a fire or burglar. So-called
“fire-proof” safes will not protect your hard drive from
an intense fire. Take your home backup to the office, and take the office backup
home. Keep your USB flash drive in your purse, pocket, neighbor’s house, or give
it to your kids. Remember that USB flash drives are easily broken. Do NOT lose
the cap, and do NOT touch the metal connector on the end, especially on dry days
with lots of static electricity, which will permanently fry the drive. Keep your
removable hard drive in your bank safe deposit box, neighbor’s
house, or someplace else AWAY from the computers it is backing up. If you
store it at home, put it low to the ground so it won't get damaged falling off a
high shelf.

Mac users with a combination router/TimeCapsule cannot turn it off without losing your internet
connection. So if you use TimeCapsule, in addition, you need to buy a
separate external hard drive for backup. Periodically, copy the contents of the
Time Capsule onto the removable hard drive, turn off the hard drive, and get it
out of the house. If the TimeCapsule is turned on and running when you get
hit by a lightning strike, strong earthquake, burglar, or leaky roof, you will lose the
contents of the TimeCapsule, so turn it OFF and get it OUT of the house.
Bring it back from time to time to do the backup. Or get two identical
TimeCapsules and alternate them home and to the safe deposit box.
Be very careful if you use a
network attached storage (NAS) device, or RAID for
backup. (If you don't know what these words mean, you are not using it.)
The backups made by these devices can usually only be read using the exact same hardware
and software that created them. If the NAS device or computer running RAID
fails, unless you can buy the exact same hardware and locate the original software, your
data will probably be unreadable. So my advice is either not to use them, or to
purchase two identical sets of hardware and keep one unused, not plugged in, as
a spare. Better yet, get an inexpensive Windows computer and back up data onto
it instead of
an NAS. This inexpensive Windows computer can also serve as an emergency
computer if the primary one fails.
SOFTWARE FOR DATA BACK UP
These days, many people elect to back up to the cloud instead of backing up data locally. The most common method is Google Backup and Sync which currently gives you 15 GB free storage plus unlimited storage of photos and videos. You can pay for more if you need it, but 15 GB is enough unless you have thousands of pictures, videos, or songs. Current prices for additional storage are listed here. Once you install Google Backup and Sync, you will indicate which folders you want backed up to Google Drive on the cloud. It will create a local folder called Google Drive and these files will synchronize to your smartphone. The sync between your various devices will take a while, depending on how many files you have. The business version, G-Suite, costs the same as additional Google cloud storage and also includes a free domain, free website, and easy-to-use website editing tools. G-Suite is HIPAA certified and thus can legally be used in medical offices to store sensitive patient information. Note: to get unlimited free storage of photos and videos, check the box to upload at High (not Original) resolution. High resolution is fine for viewing and printing photos up to about 5x7 size, but if you want to print 8x10 or poster-size, you will want to upload those photos at Original Resolution, and then it will count toward your 15 GB space limit. You can also install the Google Photos app on your smartphone for automatic upload of photos from your camera to your Google storage whenever you are in WiFi range.
Alternatively, Windows and Mac users can use Dropbox. When you install the program, it sets up a folder called Dropbox. Any file you copy or save into the Dropbox is almost instantly backed up to servers in Arizona, automatically, every time you edit it, as long as you are connected to the internet. You can access these Dropbox files from any computer anywhere, using your email address and password. You can also set up a public folder which allows you to share files (like photos of your kids) with anyone. You get 2 GB of free storage, and only pay if you exceed 2GB. The Dropbox home page has a video tutorial that explains how it works. Once you install Dropbox, move your important files into the Dropbox folder. Dropbox pricing is available here.
When you back up locally onto a removable hard drive or flash
drive, make sure you are backing up uncompressed, unencrypted data, so it can be
recovered using any computer, without needing a particular vendor's product to
do the recovery. Many backup programs and most network attached storage
devices save the data in bizarre formats that are impossible to recover if you
have a hardware or software failure. Either drop and drag your files onto
the external drive, or use the software recommended below.

Windows users can automate data backup using the excellent program GFI Backup
which is free to home users. (download
here) GFI performs an incremental backup on just the files that have
changed since your previous backup. You put little check marks (see graphic to
the right) next to the
important folders that you need to back up, and it does the rest for you. Do NOT
use GFI in automatic mode. Instead, manually run the program when you need it,
so you can disconnect the backup drive from the system. You can selectively
restore individual files from GFI. Do not use GFI to back up the entire
computer, just use it to back up the data. By default, GFI will save data
unencrypted and uncompressed. Don't fiddle with these settings.
The newest version of GFI backup requires you to use a login password for your
main Windows account. If you have a blank login password, use an older version
of GFI, which you can download
here.

Mac
users can use TimeMachine to back up their data and their system. Do NOT use
TimeMachine in automatic mode. Instead, manually run the backup, then disconnect
and remove the backup drive from the system. If a major earthquake hits
while your TimeMachine (or any other spinning backup drive) is turned on and
running, the data will be lost when the shaking destroys the drive. TimeMachine allows you to
selectively restore individual files or the entire computer. If
you use a TimeCapsule, you cannot turn it off without losing your internet
connection. So if you use TimeCapsule, in addition, you need to buy a
separate external hard drive for backup. Periodically, copy the contents of the
Time Capsule onto the removable hard drive, turn off the hard drive, and get it
out of the house to protect your data in the event of a fire or burglary.
SOFTWARE FOR SYSTEM BACKUP

You should back up your entire computer so you can restore it if the system
won't turn on or if it gets a nasty virus infection that cannot be removed.
The next few paragraphs are specific to Windows users - skip to
the Mac section if you have a Mac.
Before starting the system backup, it's a good idea to run a CHKDSK, then Disk
Cleanup, then a second Disk Cleanup and check the box to clean up system files,
then run CHKDSK again. When running Disk Cleanup, check all the boxes
except for Thumbnails and Drivers. To run Disk Cleanup, click on Start,
then in the search box type Disk Cleanup or
follow these instructions. To run CHKDSK, click on Start, then in the
search box type CHKDSK or
follow these instructions.
Windows 7 has a built-in program for
creating a system image, which backs up the entire computer, not just your
data.
Windows 8 and 10 have this program also, but it currently doesn't work, so you
will need to use
Acronis
TrueImage instead until this bug is fixed. To make a system image in Windows 7:
use these instructions or click on Start/All Programs/Maintenance and enter the Windows Backup and Restore
Center. Or click on Control Panel / System and Security / Backup and Restore.
In Windows 7, you cannot selectively restore
individual files, nor can you do an incremental backup using this method. A
complete system image can take several hours to create if you have lots of data. To recover
from a disaster, you will do a complete image restore,
then use GFI (or Dropbox of Google Drive) to recover files that have changed since the system image was
created. If you decide to use Windows to create a
system image, you should create an emergency boot disk using the same Windows
utility. You will need a blank CD or DVD (or flash drive for newer
computers) and follow the prompts as they
appear. If you need to recover and didn't make the disk, don't panic.
Read the information above on Recovery Disks or borrow
one from me.
From a system image, Windows 8 and 10 currently will allow
recovery of selected files only if the computer will boot normally. You
cannot recover the entire system under Windows 8 or 10.
In Windows 10, 8 or 8.1, you can mount a Windows system image to browse for files, copy
them, or restore them individually or in bunches. But you cannot restore
the entire system until Microsoft fixes the bug.
When you create a new Windows System Image for a given computer, it will delete
the old System Image unless you rename the old file before creating the new
image. If you have room on the hard drive, it's a good idea to keep the
old version around. On your backup drive, open the WindowsImageBackup
folder, look for the computer name, and rename the image file something like
WindowsImageBackupDec2014. In order to restore this file, you will need to
rename it back to WindowsImageBackup from the DOS prompt during the recovery
process.
For Windows 8 and 10 users,
I recommend using the software program
Acronis TrueImage Home for system backup. Acronis allows you
to recover individual files or folders, unlike Windows recovery which recovers
everything or nothing. Acronis is inexpensive and is available
here.
Make sure to make a bootable
rescue disk from Acronis. You will make a bootable rescue CD if your
computer has a CD drive, or a bootable USB if your computer has no CD/DVD drive.
Mac
users can use TimeMachine to back up their data and their system. Do NOT use
TimeMachine in automatic mode. Instead, manually run the backup, then disconnect
and remove the backup drive from the system. See the explanation under Hardware
for backup, above.
I do not recommend using Carbonite or any other online backup service for system
backup. It slows down the computer, and greatly slows down your internet
speed. If you need to do a complete system recovery, it can take several
days to download the entire system data to be recovered, or you need to wait for
them to mail you a set of recovery disks.

ENABLING SAFE MODE
If your computer has a major problem and won't boot normally, you can often boot
it into Safe Mode to limp along and copy your files that you forgot to back up.
In Windows 7, safe mode is enabled by default and you can boot to it by hitting
F8 repeatedly immediately after turning on the computer. This does not
work in Windows 8 or 10. For these operating systems, to enable safe mode.
To enable entering safe mode with F8, open an elevated command prompt and type
in the following three lines, one at a time. Each time the computer boots, it
will briefly flash the screen shown at the right. You have one second to
hit the F8 key when you see this screen, if you want to enter Safe Mode.
bcdedit /set {bootmgr} displaybootmenu yes
bcdedit /timeout 4
bcdedit /set {default} bootmenupolicy legacy
HOW OFTEN TO BACK UP DATA
Back up your data as often as it changes significantly. I back up at least once
a month. If I am working on something long and complex, like my taxes, I back up
those files at least once a day. Businesses usually do a daily backup or
twice-daily backup. Most businesses also use Google Drive, Dropbox or other real-time
system for their crucial files so they are always backed up.
ALWAYS turn the backup drive off (or eject it) and disconnect it, except when you are actually
running the backup. If an earthquake strikes and the computer is on, and the
backup drive is plugged in, you will lose the data on BOTH of them. Store the
backup drive lying down, someplace close to the ground where it won't fall
over or fall down if there is an
earthquake.
For businesses, I recommend doing a full system image backup once a month. For
home users who choose to do a full system image, once or twice a year is enough, but most
home users choose to not bother doing a full system image. If their home
computer dies, they usually pay to get it fixed or buy a new one, and the
downtime isn’t critical like it is for a business.
Periodically, check your backup drive to make sure your data is actually getting
backed up, and that you can read the backup. All too often, people ask me
to recover data from a backup drive that is empty. They THOUGHT they were
backing up, but the backups never happened.
UNINTERRUPTIBLE POWER SUPPLY
Most businesses have an
Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) attached to their
most important computers. A UPS is a four-pound battery with its own power
strip. The battery charges during normal use, and has enough power to keep
your computer running for about 15 minutes if there is a power outage. This
permits you to save what you are currently working on, and back up the files,
before shutting down the computer. Note that a UPS won't help you if there
is major shaking due to an earthquake, because then the data on your computer
will be damaged and lost. But if there is a power outage due to wind or a
fire at the power distribution center, a UPS will let you run long enough to save your information.
Most home users don't need one. UPS are sold at office supply stores,
computer stores, and online through Amazon and other vendors. I recommend
the manufacturer APC. An UPS will also protect your computer from
damage due to surges
on the power line and protect it from brownouts.

YOUR WILL AND DIGITAL EXECUTOR
You may want to appoint a digital executor in your will, or specifically grant
powers over your digital information to your executor. Read this
article from Yahoo Tech for further information, including
language you can
include in your will to cover digital information.
MORE INFORMATION
You can view a PowerPoint summary of these issues
here.
The PowerPoints are not updates as frequently as this Backup Bible.
Questions? Need help? The Computer Doctor is a consulting computer
service based in Menlo Park to help individuals and small businesses with their
computer problems. Visit our website
www.suekayton.com for more information, or email Sue Kayton,
kayton@alum.mit.edu